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#Food
Coffee, Capital, and Sleep
Living the intricate entanglement
Updated: 2021.10.23
6 min read · Intermediate
Coffee, Capital, and Sleep

K is a nightshift shopkeeper at a local drug store. 10 p.m., the shutters of the pawn store across the street are drawn, clunking down like rusty eyelids. Gently pressing his eyes and gulping down an energy drink, K trudges [1] into the back office to throw on his red uniform.

Three blocks away, S, a hedge fund manager dips her bagel in coffee and listlessly observes numbers ticking up and down on the screen. Gnawing at a piece of her night, she taps in more numbers to prepare a meeting with a Japanese client in three hours, 1 a.m. Her eyes trace the edge of her monitor to drop down, to roam about the gray floor, to meet the glass wall overlooking an insomniac [2] city from the 30th floor. She sips her coffee.

Oliver Sacks, a distinguished neurologist, declared, “I don’t so much fear death as I do wasting life.” In modern society, our work is one parameter we use to define ourselves. What we do for a living partly forms our identity. And we might have a degree of control over this since we can choose our profession. We are told that it is up to us to make something out of ourselves. Be a “self-made man.” As long as we try hard enough, we might even shoot for the moon. Then, it is natural for some of us to squeeze out as many working hours as possible to be productive — because we are responsible for our fate.

Enhancing productivity thus became one mission of individuals and corporations. One controversial variant of this mission has been to work more by reducing sleep, even though barely anyone recommends this method these days. And it is coffee that runs through the middle of our sleepless culture. Four centuries ago, coffee was a mysterious Ottoman tradition; today, “coffee break” is a generic phrase used in offices around the world. Three centuries ago, coffee was commercially grown in only one place, Yemen; today, it is a cash crop for more than 25 million people in over seventy countries. Two centuries ago, coffee was an upscale beverage for society’s upper classes; today, it is the universal work drug, filling billions of mugs every day.

Coffee owes its ascendency to caffeine. Caffeine, the world’s most famous psychoactive drug, satisfies the needs of capitalism. In the 17th century, before coffee entered the West, alcohol was the go-to drug. It muddied perception and masked the pain from physical labor; hence, beer breaks were common. These properties, however, became problematic when bookkeeping or operating machines became more important. Industrious and meticulous [3] workers were required: a single defective weaving machine would not only taint the reputation of its manufacturer but the productivity of the carpet factory that would use it.

That was when employers discovered the magic of coffee breaks. Augustine Sedgewick, in his book “Coffeeland,” tells a story of a Denver necktie maker Los Wigman Weavers and its owner Phil Greinetz. Greinetz hired older men to make up for the loss of young workers to the war efforts in the ’40s. But they weren’t fast enough to keep up with the complex necktie patterns. The owner then hired middle-aged women, who did fine with the patterns but lacked the “stamina” to work a full shift. When Phil raised the issue, his employees had a suggestion: to introduce two 15-minute coffee breaks per day.

The productivity improved immediately. The women were doing as much work in six and a half hours as the older men did in eight hours. Phil made the coffee breaks mandatory but decided not to pay for the 30 minutes during which his employees were drinking coffee. This led the Department of Labor to sue Los Wigman Weavers. A federal appeals court ruled that “[because the coffee breaks] promote more efficiency and result in greater output,” they benefited the company and should be counted as work time. Since America operates in a common law tradition, this ruling enshrined coffee break in American life.

Coffee makes us better, more alert workers. One observer in the 1660s described it as a “civil drink” that makes accountants and secretaries sober. Now, the beverage has become so ingrained that I-need-coffee memes proliferate the internet. Like we sometimes step back and reevaluate our career choices, we should stop and ask what makes us drink coffee. We are not looking for a simple answer here, don’t just say that you’re tired. Why do you have to suppress your drowsiness? Where did it all begin?

커피, 자본과 수면

K씨는 동네 약국에서 야간 근무를 하고 있습니다. 밤 10시, 건너편 전당포의 녹슨 셔터가 피곤한 듯이 내려옵니다. 녹슨 눈꺼풀처럼 꿀럭 거리면서 말이죠. 눈가를 살짝 마사지하며 에너지 드링크를 벌컥벌컥 들이키고, 그는 빨간 유니폼으로 환복하기 위해 뒤 사무실로 터벅터벅 들어갑니다.

세 블록 떨어진 곳에, 헤지 펀드 매니저 S씨는 베이글을 커피에 적시며 매우 피곤한 상태로 숫자가 오르락내리락하는 스크린을 보고 있습니다. 그녀는 베이글을 잘근잘근 씹어먹으며 더 많은 숫자를 두드립니다. 3시간 뒤인 새벽 1시에 있는 일본 고객과의 미팅을 준비하는 것입니다. 그녀의 시선은 모니터 끝자락에서 회색 바닥에 머물다가 자지 않는 도시가 30층에서 내려다 보이는 유리창에 도착합니다. 그녀는 커피를 홀짝입니다.

저명한 신경외과 의사인 올리버 삭스는 이렇게 말한 바 있습니다, "나는 인생을 낭비하는 것만큼 죽음이 두렵지는 않습니다." 현대 사회에서, 직업은 우리 자신을 정의하는데 사용하는 하나의 기준입니다. 먹고 살기 위해 하는 것이 일이지만, 그것이 부분적으로 우리의 정체성을 형성하는 것이죠. 그리고 직업은 우리가 선택할 수 있는 것이니, 이런 것들을 어느 정도나마 통제할 수 있습니다. 우리는 우리가 뭐가 되던지, 그건 다 하기 나름이다라는 말을 많이 듣습니다. “스스로를 만들어나가는 사람”이 되라는 거죠. 우리가 충분히 노력하기만 한다면, 달에도 닿을 수 있다고들 합니다. 이렇게 보면, 어떤 이들이 생산성을 올리기 위해 가능한 한 많은 노동 시간을 짜내려고 하는 것은 당연합니다. 그것이 미래를 바꿀 수 있는 방법이라고 믿기 때문입니다.

따라서 생산성 향상은 개인과 기업의 임무가 되었습니다. 요즘은 거의 아무도 이 방법을 추천하지 않지만, 논란이 되는 생산성 향상 방법 중 하나는 잠을 줄임으로써 더 많은 일을 하는 것이었습니다. 그리고 우리의 잠 못 이루는 문화를 관통하는 것은 커피입니다. 4세기 전, 커피는 신비로운 오스만 전통이었습니다. 하지만 요즘 "커피 브레이크"는 전세계 사무실에서 사용되는 일반적인 표현입니다. 3세기 전만 해도 커피는 예멘 한 곳에서만 상업적으로 재배되었습니다. 하지만 요즘 커피는 70개국 이상에서 2,500만 명 이상의 사람들이 돈을 벌기 위해 재배하는 작물입니다. 2세기 전, 커피는 사회의 상류층을 위한 고급 음료였습니다. 하지만 요즘 커피는 매일 수십억 개의 머그컵을 채우는 흔한 일터 보급품이 되었죠.

커피의 큰 성장은 카페인 때문입니다. 세계에서 가장 유명한 정신 활성제인 카페인은 자본주의 사회의 필요를 충족시킵니다. 커피가 서양에 들어오기 전인 17세기에 제일 많이 쓰이는 약은 술이었습니다. 지각력이 흐려지고 육체노동으로 인한 고통이 가려지기 때문에 휴식 시간에 맥주를 마시는 것은 흔한 일이었습니다. 그러나 이러한 술의 특성은 장부 관리나 기계 운영의 중요성이 커짐에 따라 문제가 되었습니다. 이제는 근면하고 세심한 작업자가 필요하게 되었습니다. 결함이 있는 직조기 한 대는 제조 업체의 명성뿐 아니라 이를 사용하는 카펫 공장의 생산성에까지 악영향을 미칠 수 있기 때문입니다.

그 시기에 고용주들이 휴식 시간에 커피를 마시는 것이 해답이 될 수 있다는 것을 알게 되었습니다. 어거스틴 세지윅은 그의 책 "커피랜드"에서 덴버 넥타이 제조업체 로스 위그먼 위버스와 그 소유주 필 그리네츠에 대한 이야기를 합니다. 그리네츠는 40년대에 전쟁 때문에 젊은 근로자들을 잃었고 이를 만회하기 위해 나이 든 남성 노동자들을 고용했습니다. 하지만 그들은 복잡한 넥타이 패턴을 만들 만큼 손재주가 좋지 않았습니다. 그 후, 주인은 패턴을 잘 다루는 중년 여성을 고용했는데, 이들은 근무시간을 채우기엔 '체력'이 부족했습니다. 필이 이 문제를 제기했을 때, 그의 직원들은 하루에 두 번, 커피 마실 15분의 휴식 시간을 도입하라는 것을 제안을 했습니다.

생산성은 즉시 향상되었습니다. 이 여성들은 나이든 남성들이 8시간 동안 생산했던 양을 6시간 반 동안 만들고 있었습니다. 필은 이 “"커피 브레이크"를 의무화했지만, 그의 직원들이 커피를 마시는 30분에 대한 임금은 지불하지 않기로 결정했습니다. 노동부는 이를 문제삼아 로스 위그먼 위버스를 고소했습니다. 연방항소법원은 "커피를 마시는 휴식 시간이 효율성을 상승시키고 생산량을 증가시키기 때문에" 회사에 이익을 주는 행위이며 근무 시간으로 간주해야 한다고 판결을 내렸습니다. 미국은 관습법의 전통을 따르고 있기 때문에, 이 판결 후 "커피 브레이크"는 미국인들의 일상의 한 부분으로 자리잡게 되었습니다.

커피 덕분에 우리는 더 효율적이고 주의 깊은 근로자가 될 수 있습니다. 1660년대의 어떤 이는 커피를 회계사와 비서들의 정신을 맑게 하는 "문명인의 음료"라고 묘사했습니다. 이제, 이 음료는 우리 사회의 필수적인 부분이 되어 “커피 수혈” 밈이 인터넷에 떠돕니다. 우리가 가끔 한 발짝 물러서서 직업 선택을 재고하듯이, 우리는 멈춰 서서 우리가 커피를 마시는 이유가 무엇인지 물어볼 필요가 있습니다. 여기서는 간단한 답을 찾는 것이 아닙니다. 피곤하다는 것은 답이 될 수 없습니다. 우리는 왜 졸음을 참아야 하죠? 이는 어디에서 시작되었을까요?

Discussion Questions
Q1
In your own words, please briefly summarize the article.
Q2
Do you think you sleep enough?
Q3
Do you drink coffee regularly? If so, why?
Q4
What are the effects of caffeine on your body?
Q5
What are the benefits and drawbacks of consuming caffeine?
Q6
Drinking coffee was once stigmatized because of its psychedelic effects. Do you think relying on coffee or caffeine is not good for you because it is addictive?
Q7
Do you think coffee, with the same taste, would have become so common and popular around the world had it not been for its effects that sober your mind and suppress drowsiness?
Q8
What is your relationship with your work like? Do you feel the constant pressure to be productive, even on the weekends?
Q9
From Affogato to Cappuccino to Ristretto, “coffee” has become a rich category of different beverages. What is your favorite drink and why?
Q10
What is the time, people, or atmosphere associated with your typical coffee consumption?
Q11
If you have a question or questions that you'd like to discuss during your class, please write them down.
Expressions
trudge
to trudge somewhere is to walk there with heavy steps and slowly because you are tired and unhappy
Example
1

She trudged (walked along) the deserted road on a rainy day.

Example
2

Workers were carrying bricks, trudging up flights of stairs for hours.

insomniac
a person whose sleep pattern is disturbed; regularly unable to sleep
Example
1

He is a hypochondriac and an insomniac, so his brother jokingly recommended him to see a shrink.

Example
2

New York City is an insomniac city; you can easily find shops that are run 24 hours.

meticulous
showing great precision and attention to detail
Example
1

Isac is meticulous and would not allow himself to slack, but I wonder if something’s going on in his personal life lately because I’m starting to notice some mistakes here and there.

Example
2

In the legal profession, meticulousness and conscientiousness are highly valued.

본 교재는 당사 편집진이 제작하는 링글의 자산으로 저작권법에 의해 보호됩니다. 링글 플랫폼 외에서 자료를 활용하시는 경우 당사와 사전 협의가 필요합니다.

K is a nightshift shopkeeper at a local drug store. 10 p.m., the shutters of the pawn store across the street are drawn, clunking down like rusty eyelids. Gently pressing his eyes and gulping down an energy drink, K trudges [1] into the back office to throw on his red uniform.

Three blocks away, S, a hedge fund manager dips her bagel in coffee and listlessly observes numbers ticking up and down on the screen. Gnawing at a piece of her night, she taps in more numbers to prepare a meeting with a Japanese client in three hours, 1 a.m. Her eyes trace the edge of her monitor to drop down, to roam about the gray floor, to meet the glass wall overlooking an insomniac [2] city from the 30th floor. She sips her coffee.

Oliver Sacks, a distinguished neurologist, declared, “I don’t so much fear death as I do wasting life.” In modern society, our work is one parameter we use to define ourselves. What we do for a living partly forms our identity. And we might have a degree of control over this since we can choose our profession. We are told that it is up to us to make something out of ourselves. Be a “self-made man.” As long as we try hard enough, we might even shoot for the moon. Then, it is natural for some of us to squeeze out as many working hours as possible to be productive — because we are responsible for our fate.

Enhancing productivity thus became one mission of individuals and corporations. One controversial variant of this mission has been to work more by reducing sleep, even though barely anyone recommends this method these days. And it is coffee that runs through the middle of our sleepless culture. Four centuries ago, coffee was a mysterious Ottoman tradition; today, “coffee break” is a generic phrase used in offices around the world. Three centuries ago, coffee was commercially grown in only one place, Yemen; today, it is a cash crop for more than 25 million people in over seventy countries. Two centuries ago, coffee was an upscale beverage for society’s upper classes; today, it is the universal work drug, filling billions of mugs every day.

Coffee owes its ascendency to caffeine. Caffeine, the world’s most famous psychoactive drug, satisfies the needs of capitalism. In the 17th century, before coffee entered the West, alcohol was the go-to drug. It muddied perception and masked the pain from physical labor; hence, beer breaks were common. These properties, however, became problematic when bookkeeping or operating machines became more important. Industrious and meticulous [3] workers were required: a single defective weaving machine would not only taint the reputation of its manufacturer but the productivity of the carpet factory that would use it.

That was when employers discovered the magic of coffee breaks. Augustine Sedgewick, in his book “Coffeeland,” tells a story of a Denver necktie maker Los Wigman Weavers and its owner Phil Greinetz. Greinetz hired older men to make up for the loss of young workers to the war efforts in the ’40s. But they weren’t fast enough to keep up with the complex necktie patterns. The owner then hired middle-aged women, who did fine with the patterns but lacked the “stamina” to work a full shift. When Phil raised the issue, his employees had a suggestion: to introduce two 15-minute coffee breaks per day.

The productivity improved immediately. The women were doing as much work in six and a half hours as the older men did in eight hours. Phil made the coffee breaks mandatory but decided not to pay for the 30 minutes during which his employees were drinking coffee. This led the Department of Labor to sue Los Wigman Weavers. A federal appeals court ruled that “[because the coffee breaks] promote more efficiency and result in greater output,” they benefited the company and should be counted as work time. Since America operates in a common law tradition, this ruling enshrined coffee break in American life.

Coffee makes us better, more alert workers. One observer in the 1660s described it as a “civil drink” that makes accountants and secretaries sober. Now, the beverage has become so ingrained that I-need-coffee memes proliferate the internet. Like we sometimes step back and reevaluate our career choices, we should stop and ask what makes us drink coffee. We are not looking for a simple answer here, don’t just say that you’re tired. Why do you have to suppress your drowsiness? Where did it all begin?

*This material is designed for the exclusive use of Ringle students on the Ringle platform.