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#Social Issues
The Rise of China and the Ethics of Consumption
Example—Xinjiang Cotton
Updated: 2021.06.17
7 min read · Intermediate
The Rise of China and the Ethics of Consumption

The rise of China as a global economic superpower in the space of thirty to forty years is the most rapid example of economic growth in the history of the global economy. Since the 1980s, approximately 850 million people have been lifted from poverty in China; this is roughly equivalent to the entire population of Africa in the new millennium.

Interestingly, this transformation happened with minimal foreign aid, instead occurring through a combination of state-led market intervention [1] and rampant [2] market forces. Chinese companies have risen first to domestic prominence, beating global tech titans [3] such as Google, and then to foreign markets where Chinese companies such as Tencent, Alibaba, and Baidu have large portfolios of foreign investments and subsidiaries.

Fueling this economic boom has been the growth in Chinese consumer spending. If we look at growth in global wealth from 1988 to 2008, the Chinese middle class has seen their income level rise by more than any other demographic in the world. Thus, for the international companies that have successfully entered the Chinese market, maintaining popularity and access is a matter of utmost importance. Nike, for example, has seen sales in China surpass its North American sales in the first quarter of 2021. This underlines the importance of the Chinese consumer market to western retailers.

Alongside the rapid growth of China’s consumer market, Western consumers have begun to place a heightened level of importance on the ethics of their consumption. The fashion industry has been particularly targeted for its environmental impact, as well as its treatment of labor throughout its supply chains. This has created a ‘perfect storm’ for backlash against Xinjiang cotton which has burst onto the global stage in the wider context of condemnations of China following the outbreak of the Coronavirus pandemic. This wave of anti-Chinese backlash has been driven by the odd bedfellows of former president Donald Trump, conservative voices in other western democracies, and civil rights groups.

Xinjiang currently provides approximately twenty percent of the global supply of cotton. However, in recent years, China has increased the number of Uighurs living in camps in the region, often forced to work against their will or attend re-education sessions. The detention is arbitrary and there have been accusations of forced sterilizations, violence, and extreme mistreatment inside the camps. Religious oppression against the mostly Islamic Uighur population has also occurred, with religious affiliation often used as a justification for imprisonment.

Despite this backlash, China maintains a powerful hand. As previously noted, the Chinese market is critical to many western companies, and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) has demonstrated a willingness to take extreme measures against these companies when pushed. Hennes & Mauritz, often abbreviated H&M, is one of the world’s largest clothing retailers, and yet was pulled from a Chinese e-commerce platform for refusing to use Xinjiang cotton. Ride-hailing apps such as DiDi even refused to accept H&M stores as a destination for users. Many may also remember the painful withdrawal of Google from China. When many believed that the loss of Google would be a critical blow to Chinese economic growth, the opposite was, in fact, true. The loss of foreign companies often promotes the rise of more dynamic Chinese alternatives, in this case, Baidu.

There is also another aspect to this story. China is a developing economy. It has already been argued that the rise of the Chinese economy has been the greatest story of poverty alleviation, and thus the single most significant humanitarian event in the history of civilization. An entire continent has risen from starvation to moderate prosperity in almost two generations. It could be argued that western corporate intervention could be seen as an example of neo-imperialism, driven less by ethical concerns, and more by fears over a loss in dominance. Trying to limit this economic growth risks withdrawing from this great poverty alleviation project.

Others, such as Kishore Mahbubani, a world-renowned Singaporean academic, official, and author of books on the rise of China and India, have also argued that these actions against China only strengthen the CCP and push China further away from democracy. Whilst there has been considerable economic development in urbanized and coastal Chinese regions, the countryside still remains comparatively poor. Unlike in places such as Korea and Taiwan, China has yet to fully modernize, as such many argue that China does not yet have the level of development required to sustain a healthy democracy.

Finally, it could be argued that it simply isn’t economically feasible to force western companies to change their supply chains in a pandemic that has already severely disrupted global supply chains. With many companies struggling, is it reasonable to expect them to break the habits that have supplied western markets for decades?

중국의 부상과 소비 윤리

중국이 30~40년 사이에 글로벌 경제 초강대국으로 부상한 것은 세계 경제 역사상 가장 빠른 경제 성장 사례입니다. 1980년대 이후 중국에서는 약 8억 5천만 명이 빈곤에서 벗어났습니다. 이 숫자는 2000년대 아프리카 전체 인구수와 거의 동일합니다.

흥미롭게도 이런 변화는 해외로 부터의 원조 없이, 국가 주도의 시장 개입과 파죽지세로 성장하는 시장의 움직임이 결합되어 발생했습니다. 중국 기업들은 구글 같은 세계 거물급 기술 기업을 제치고 먼저 중국 시장을 선점했고 이후 해외 시장으로 진출했는데, Tencent, Alibaba, Baidu 같은 중국 기업들은 대규모 해외 투자와 자회사들을 해외 시장에 보유하고 있습니다.

이러한 경제 호황에 불을 지핀 것은 중국 내 소비 지출의 증가였습니다. 1988년부터 2008년까지 세계 부의 증가를 살펴보면 중국 중상층의 소득 수준이 세계 어느 중상층보다 더 많이 증가했습니다. 따라서 성공적으로 중국 시장에 진출한 글로벌 기업들에게 있어 가장 중요한 것은 중국 고객의 높은 관심과 접근성을 유지하는 것이 되었습니다. 예를 들어 2021년 1분기 나이키의 중국 판매가 북미 시장 내 판매를 넘어섰습니다. 이 사례는 서구 소비재 기업들에게 있어 중국 시장이 얼마나 중요해 졌는지를 강조해 보여줍니다.

중국 소비 시장이 빠르게 성장하는 동안, 서구 소비자들은 윤리적인 소비를 중시하기 시작했습니다. 특히 패션 산업은 환경에 미치는 영향과 공급망 전체에 걸친 노동자 처우로 도마 위에 올랐습니다. 코로나 발생 이후 중국에 대한 비난이 높은 상황에서, 패션 산업에 대한 이러한 소비자 의식은 국제적으로 급부상한 신장 면화 사건으로 인해 ‘특히 최악(perfect storm)으로’ 치닫게 되었습니다. 이런 반중 물결은 이 도널드 트럼프 전 대통령과 여타 서구 민주국가 내 보수주의자들, 그리고 민권단체 간 동맹이 주도하고 있습니다.

신장은 현재 전 세계 면화 공급량의 약 20%를 공급하는 지역입니다. 그런데 중국은 최근 몇 년 동안 신장 수용소에서 생활하는 위구르족의 수를 늘렸고, 이들은 종종 자신의 의사에 반해서 노동력을 제공하거나 ‘재교육’에 참석하도록 강요받았습니다. 이런 구금은 누구의 동의를 받은 적도 없고, 수용소 내의 강제 불임수술, 폭력, 극심한 처우에 대한 비난이 있었습니다. 대부분 이슬람교인 위구르족에 대한 종교적 탄압도 일어났으며, 종교는 주로 감금을 정당화하는 데 사용되었습니다.

서구의 반중 움직임에도 불구하고, 중국은 강력한 영향력을 유지하고 있습니다. 앞서 언급했듯이 많은 서구 기업들에게 있어 중국 시장은 매우 중요하고, 중국 공산당(CCP)은 권위에 도전을 받았다 하면 이런 서구 기업들을 대상으로 극단적인 조치를 취하겠다는 의지를 보여준 것입니다. Hennes & Mauritz(약칭 H&M)는 세계에서 가장 큰 의류 소매 업체 중 하나이지만, 신장 면화 사용을 거부했다는 이유로 중국 전자 상거래 플랫폼에서 퇴출당하였습니다. 심지어 DiDi 같은 교통수단 호출 앱은 H&M 매장을 목적지로 하는 고객 연결을 거부하기도 했습니다. 많은 사람들이 구글의 뼈아픈 중국 철수를 기억할 것입니다. 사람들은 구글 서비스를 잃는 것이 중국 경제 성장에 큰 타격을 줄 것이라고 믿었지만, 사실 결과는 그 반대였습니다. 중국에서는 종종 외국 기업이 사라지면 대안이 될 수 있는 보다 역동적인 중국 기업의 부상을 촉진하는 결과가 나오게 되는데, 구글 철수의 경우는 Baidu의 부상이었습니다.

이 이야기에는 또 다른 측면도 있습니다. 중국은 개발도상국입니다. 중국 경제의 부상은 빈곤 완화의 가장 훌륭한 스토리이고, 따라서 문명 역사상 가장 중요한 인도주의적 사건이라고 주장되어 왔습니다. 거의 두 세대에 걸쳐 대륙 전체가 기아에서 어느 정도는 번영을 누리는 수준으로 성장했습니다. 서구 기업의 개입은 윤리적 우려보다는 지배력을 상실에 대한 두려움으로 인해 주도되는 신제국주의의 예로 볼 수 있다고 주장 가능합니다. 중국의 경제 성장에 제한을 하면 이 위대한 빈곤 완화 프로젝트를 퇴색시킬 위험이 있습니다.

세계적으로 유명한 싱가포르의 학자이자 공무원이고, 중국과 인도의 부상에 관한 책을 집필한 Kishore Mahbubani 같은 사람들도 중국을 겨냥한 이러한 행동은 단지 중국 공산당만 견고하게 하고 중국을 민주주의로부터 더 멀게 할 뿐이라고 주장했습니다. 도시화를 이룬 중국 해안 지역에서는 상당한 경제 발전이 있었지만, 농촌은 여전히 상대적으로 열악합니다. 한국이나 대만과 달리 중국은 아직 완전히 현대화되지 않았고, 많은 사람은 중국이 건강한 민주주의를 유지하는 데 필요한 만큼의 발전을 아직 이루지 못했다고 주장합니다.

마지막으로, 이미 세계 공급망에 심각하게 지장을 준 팬데믹 상황에서 서구 기업들이 공급망을 변경하도록 강요하는 것은 경제적으로 불가능하다고 주장할 수 있습니다. 많은 기업이 어려움을 겪고 있는 가운데, 수십 년 동안 서구 시장을 공급해온 습관을 버리길 기대하는 것이 합리적일까요?

Discussion Questions
Q1
In your own words, please briefly summarize the article.
Q2
How does the rise of the Chinese economy make you feel? Are you in awe of economic success? Are you worried about the shift in the global political balance?
Q3
Considering only two possibilities, do you think the Western condemnation of China is driven more by genuine ethical concerns or more by a fear of losing the top spot on the global stage?
Q4
Given the historic use of oppression by western economies to achieve and maintain economic growth, do you think it is possible to have economic growth without exploitation?
Q5
A prominent Singaporean academic argues that aggressive actions by western governments towards China are likely to strengthen the Chinese Communist Party and push China further away from liberal democracy. To what extent do you agree or disagree with his statement?
Q6
Do you think China will democratize? If so, when do you believe this might occur?
Q7
(A follow-up question to Q6) What could trigger such a transition? Finally, do you think this would be positive for China or the world?
Q8
The CEO of Nike, John Donahoe, is facing mounting pressure from human rights groups to take action on Nike’s supply chains in Xinjiang, whilst having to maintain his responsibility to Nike shareholders. What would your advice be to the CEO of Nike on navigating the current crisis: do you prioritize growth in the Chinese market, or risk losing market share?
Q9
If you have a question or questions that you'd like to discuss during your class, please write them down.
Expressions
intervention
the act of intervening; the act of coming between disputing people or interfering with force
Example
1

The Chinese government’s intervention diffused the situation.

Example
2

The couple’s therapy didn’t work, so Mr. and Mrs. Kim are scheduling a court intervention.

rampant
spreading unchecked and uncontrolled
Example
1

My friend was hesitant to move into a neighborhood closer to his office because of the rampant violence in the community.

Example
2

According to a rampant rumor, Amy and Emma cut off all ties.

titan
a person or thing of tremendous size, power, strength, influence, money, etc.
Example
1

The dark underbelly of entertainment titans was exposed by some journalists.

Example
2

At the table, the country’s business titans were confiding in each other to form a business cartel.

본 교재는 당사 편집진이 제작하는 링글의 자산으로 저작권법에 의해 보호됩니다. 링글 플랫폼 외에서 자료를 활용하시는 경우 당사와 사전 협의가 필요합니다.

The rise of China as a global economic superpower in the space of thirty to forty years is the most rapid example of economic growth in the history of the global economy. Since the 1980s, approximately 850 million people have been lifted from poverty in China; this is roughly equivalent to the entire population of Africa in the new millennium.

Interestingly, this transformation happened with minimal foreign aid, instead occurring through a combination of state-led market intervention [1] and rampant [2] market forces. Chinese companies have risen first to domestic prominence, beating global tech titans [3] such as Google, and then to foreign markets where Chinese companies such as Tencent, Alibaba, and Baidu have large portfolios of foreign investments and subsidiaries.

Fueling this economic boom has been the growth in Chinese consumer spending. If we look at growth in global wealth from 1988 to 2008, the Chinese middle class has seen their income level rise by more than any other demographic in the world. Thus, for the international companies that have successfully entered the Chinese market, maintaining popularity and access is a matter of utmost importance. Nike, for example, has seen sales in China surpass its North American sales in the first quarter of 2021. This underlines the importance of the Chinese consumer market to western retailers.

Alongside the rapid growth of China’s consumer market, Western consumers have begun to place a heightened level of importance on the ethics of their consumption. The fashion industry has been particularly targeted for its environmental impact, as well as its treatment of labor throughout its supply chains. This has created a ‘perfect storm’ for backlash against Xinjiang cotton which has burst onto the global stage in the wider context of condemnations of China following the outbreak of the Coronavirus pandemic. This wave of anti-Chinese backlash has been driven by the odd bedfellows of former president Donald Trump, conservative voices in other western democracies, and civil rights groups.

Xinjiang currently provides approximately twenty percent of the global supply of cotton. However, in recent years, China has increased the number of Uighurs living in camps in the region, often forced to work against their will or attend re-education sessions. The detention is arbitrary and there have been accusations of forced sterilizations, violence, and extreme mistreatment inside the camps. Religious oppression against the mostly Islamic Uighur population has also occurred, with religious affiliation often used as a justification for imprisonment.

Despite this backlash, China maintains a powerful hand. As previously noted, the Chinese market is critical to many western companies, and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) has demonstrated a willingness to take extreme measures against these companies when pushed. Hennes & Mauritz, often abbreviated H&M, is one of the world’s largest clothing retailers, and yet was pulled from a Chinese e-commerce platform for refusing to use Xinjiang cotton. Ride-hailing apps such as DiDi even refused to accept H&M stores as a destination for users. Many may also remember the painful withdrawal of Google from China. When many believed that the loss of Google would be a critical blow to Chinese economic growth, the opposite was, in fact, true. The loss of foreign companies often promotes the rise of more dynamic Chinese alternatives, in this case, Baidu.

There is also another aspect to this story. China is a developing economy. It has already been argued that the rise of the Chinese economy has been the greatest story of poverty alleviation, and thus the single most significant humanitarian event in the history of civilization. An entire continent has risen from starvation to moderate prosperity in almost two generations. It could be argued that western corporate intervention could be seen as an example of neo-imperialism, driven less by ethical concerns, and more by fears over a loss in dominance. Trying to limit this economic growth risks withdrawing from this great poverty alleviation project.

Others, such as Kishore Mahbubani, a world-renowned Singaporean academic, official, and author of books on the rise of China and India, have also argued that these actions against China only strengthen the CCP and push China further away from democracy. Whilst there has been considerable economic development in urbanized and coastal Chinese regions, the countryside still remains comparatively poor. Unlike in places such as Korea and Taiwan, China has yet to fully modernize, as such many argue that China does not yet have the level of development required to sustain a healthy democracy.

Finally, it could be argued that it simply isn’t economically feasible to force western companies to change their supply chains in a pandemic that has already severely disrupted global supply chains. With many companies struggling, is it reasonable to expect them to break the habits that have supplied western markets for decades?

*This material is designed for the exclusive use of Ringle students on the Ringle platform.